Coffee from Kenya
Kenyan coffee is the most acidic thing in most roasters' line-ups — blackcurrant, tomato and grapefruit — the signature of SL28 and SL34 grown on volcanic soil around Mount Kenya.
Two varieties define the taste. SL28 and SL34 were selected by Scott Agricultural Laboratories in the 1930s and produce an acidity so structured it can be mistaken for sharpness on first encounter. Ruiru 11 and Batian, bred later for disease resistance, are increasingly present in the same lots.
Kenya also processes differently. The traditional method uses a double fermentation with an intermediate soak in clean water, which strips the cup back to fruit and acid with very little body in the way.
The grades on the bag describe the bean, not the cup. AA and AB are screen sizes — an AA bean is simply a large one — and PB is peaberry, a single rounded seed instead of the usual pair. None of them is a quality mark; plenty of exceptional Kenyan coffee is sold as AB. Most lots are still assembled at a cooperative-run factory from cherry delivered by hundreds of smallholders, then sold through the Nairobi Coffee Exchange.
- Coffees in the catalogue
- 13
- Growing regions
- Embu, Nyeri, Kirinyaga, Kiambu, Mount Kenya
- Varieties
- SL28, Mixed varieties, Batian, SL28, SL34, Ruiru 11, SL28, SL34, SL-28, SL-34, Batian, Ruiru 11
- Processing
- Washed
- Altitude
- 1,600 – 1,800 m
- Common notes
- blackcurrant, grapefruit, juicy, cherry and tomato
- Price range
- $20.00 – $45.00
- Roasted by
- 13 roasters
13 Kenya coffees in the catalogue
- Kamavindi — Counter Culture Coffee. blood orange, nectarine and juicy. $33.00 / 340 g.
- Take it Slowly — Passion House Coffee Roasters. papaya, green grape, cola and lime zest. $29.00 / 340 g.
- Kenya Embu AA — Sump Coffee. tart apricot, bergamot and blueberry. $22.00 / 340 g.
- Nairobi AA, Kenya — Blueprint Coffee. craisin, green apple, sweet lime and cardamom. $24.00 / 284 g.
- Kenya Kirinyaga — Kaldi's Coffee Roasting Company. grapefruit, cherry and shortbread. $20.50 / 340 g.
- Mamuto AA — George Howell Coffee. blackberry, plum, cherry and violet. $45.00 / 340 g.
- Kenya Nyeri AB — SK Coffee. blackcurrant, tomato and citrus. $24.00 / 340 g.
- Karinga AB — Little Wolf Coffee Roasters. blackcurrant, grapefruit and juicy. $20.00 / 340 g.
- Kenya Karimikui AB — Heart Coffee Roasters. blackcurrant, tomato and lime. $20.00 / 340 g.
- Kenya Mugaya — Metric Coffee Co. red currant, vanilla bean and black tea. $25.00 / 284 g.
- Kenya Kii — Dogwood Coffee Co. blackcurrant, grapefruit and brown sugar. $25.00 / 340 g.
- Kiangoi — La Cabra. redcurrant, hibiscus and crisp. $25.00 / 250 g.
- Kamwangi — Sey Coffee. blackcurrant, rhubarb and grapefruit. $27.00 / 250 g.